VW T5 Driveshaft Problems, Symptoms & Replacement Advice

The VW T5’s a good van, no doubt. Strong engines, loads of space, comfy enough for long drives — it’s one of the reasons they’re still everywhere, even after all these years. But like most vans that get used day in, day out, things wear out. Driveshaft’s one of them.

If yours is starting to play up, you might get noise when turning, a bit of wobble through the floor, or worse — it stops putting power down altogether. This should help you figure out what’s going on, what to look for, and what you’re in for if it needs swapping.

What Does the Driveshaft Actually Do?

Put simply, it connects your gearbox to the wheels. On front-wheel-drive ones, it runs out from the gearbox to each front wheel. On 4Motion models, you’ve also got rear shafts to power the back wheels.

At each end of the shaft, there’s a CV joint (constant velocity). These let the shaft flex and turn while still spinning smoothly — handy when the suspension’s bouncing around or you’re on full lock. If one of those joints goes, you’ll know about it.

What Goes Wrong With T5 Driveshafts?

CV Joints Start Clicking

The CV joints are covered by rubber boots filled with grease. Once those boots split (and they do), all the muck from the road gets in. Water, dirt, salt — all of it eats into the joint. Soon enough, it’ll start clicking when you turn the wheel. Ignore it, and it’ll get louder until the joint gives up.

Vibration Through the Van

A shaft that’s even slightly bent or out of balance can cause a proper shake through the van. You’ll notice it most at 40–60mph. Could be a warped shaft, worn joint, or just a missing balance weight.

Centre Bearing Worn (on Some Models)

Some T5s have a centre support bearing on the longer shafts. When that goes, it starts with a low rumble or humming noise. Gets worse under load — like pulling off or going uphill.

Rust on the Shaft

Not every shaft rusts, but ones that have done a few winters or sat around unused will often be flaking. Surface rust isn’t the end of the world, but if the shaft’s pitted badly or the joint casing is corroded, it can weaken over time.

Physical Damage

Off-roading? Kerbed it? Hit something under the van? You might’ve bent the shaft without realising. Doesn’t take much to throw it out of line — and once it’s wobbling, it won’t sort itself out.

Signs It Might Be Failing

Here’s the usual stuff that points to the shaft or CV joints being past it:

• Clicking or knocking when turning
• Shuddering or vibration at speed or when accelerating
• Clunks when changing gear or setting off
• Grease splattered around the inside of the wheel (from a split boot)
• No drive at all (if the shaft’s snapped or pulled out of the ‘box)

Quick Ways to Check It

You can spot most T5 driveshaft problems without taking half the van apart. Here’s a few quick checks.

Look Underneath

Jack it up and have a nose under. Are the rubber CV boots still intact? Any splits or grease around the joint and you’re in trouble. Also look for rust or dents along the shaft itself.

Shake Test

Grab the shaft and try moving it side to side or twisting it by hand. A little play’s normal, but if there’s clunking or movement you can feel in the joint, it’s had it.

Take It for a Drive

Try full lock in both directions in a car park. Listen for clicking. Accelerate hard, coast, slow down — any noises or shakes under load probably mean the shaft or joint’s gone.

Rule Out Other Stuff

Don’t jump straight to the shaft. Wheel bearings, dodgy suspension parts or engine mounts can feel very similar. Worth checking those too.

Fix It or Replace It?

Just the Joint or Boot

If the shaft itself is still straight and solid, and it’s just the CV joint or the boot that’s knackered, you can change those bits on their own. Bit of a faff, but cheaper than a whole new shaft. Make sure to pack it with fresh grease and fit a proper quality boot kit — cheap ones don’t last.

Full Replacement

If the T5 driveshaft is bent, rusted to hell, or more than one part’s had it, swap the lot. You can get decent aftermarket shafts for reasonable money, or go OEM if you prefer. Either way, once it’s done, it’s one less job to worry about.

Replacing the Driveshaft – Rough Guide

Disclaimer: This is just the gist of it. If you’re not sure, or don’t fancy lying on the driveway, get a mechanic to do it.

Tools Needed

• Axle stands and trolley jack
• Socket set and long bar
• Torque wrench
• Ball joint splitter (maybe)
• Big screwdriver or pry bar

What You’re Doing

1. Crack the wheel nuts while it’s still on the ground
2. Jack it up, axle stands underneath, and take the wheel off
3. Remove the hub nut — they’re tight
4. Separate the lower ball joint if needed to move the hub
5. Slide the outer CV joint out of the hub
6. Pop the inner end out of the gearbox or unbolt it (depends on model)
7. Fit the new shaft
8. Bolt it all back up, torque everything properly
9. Refit the wheel and drop it back down
10. Go for a short drive — check for any knocks or wobbles

Keep It Going Longer

• Check the CV boots now and then – they crack over time
• Rinse off the underside in winter – gets the salt off
• Don’t overload it – added weight means more strain
• Take it easy over potholes and kerbs – simple way to avoid bending anything

Driveshafts aren’t the most exciting bit on a van, but when they start going, you’ll definitely notice. Luckily, they’re not the worst job in the world to sort, especially if you catch it early.

If you hear clicking, feel wobbling, or spot grease sprayed round the arches, get under there and have a look. Might be a quick fix, might need a new shaft — but either way, better to deal with it before it leaves you stuck at the side of the road.